Evidence-Based Skincare
The skincare industry is worth billions, but only a handful of ingredients have strong clinical evidence.
The Big Three
1. Retinoids (Vitamin A derivatives)
- Gold standard for anti-aging
- Increases cell turnover, boosts collagen production
- Prescription (tretinoin) is more effective than OTC (retinol)
- Start low (0.025%) and increase gradually
2. Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
- Potent antioxidant that protects against UV damage
- Brightens skin and fades hyperpigmentation
- Look for 10–20% concentration, pH below 3.5
- Apply in the morning under sunscreen
3. Sunscreen
- The single most important anti-aging product
- SPF 30+ broad-spectrum, applied daily
- Reapply every 2 hours during sun exposure
- Physical (zinc oxide) vs. chemical — both are effective
Supporting Ingredients
| Ingredient | Best For | How It Works | |-----------|---------|-------------| | Niacinamide | Pores, redness | Strengthens skin barrier | | Hyaluronic acid | Hydration | Holds 1000x its weight in water | | AHAs (glycolic acid) | Texture, tone | Chemical exfoliation | | Ceramides | Dry skin | Restores lipid barrier |
What to Skip
- Collagen creams — molecules are too large to penetrate skin
- Most "natural" ingredients — tea tree, coconut oil can irritate
- Fragrance — common cause of contact dermatitis